Beauty Apothecary Lab

In need of a Cosmetic Formulator to create your skincare line ? You have found the right place ! I am a Certified Organic Cosmetic Formulator and here to help with your formulation ideas. I specialize in botanical formulations: I develop natural beauty products for skin, body and hair from plant-derived ingredients. As this is part of my business, I will never disclose anything that you discuss with me but if you’d like, I can provide a NDA or sign yours. After that, this is what will happen:

1. We discuss your project

What kind of product you would like me to formulate, what do you want your product to achieve, who is your target market, do you have ingredient requirements, what kind of tests will your product need, etc.

2. Quote

Prices for the formulation of an anhydrous product start at £1000 and prices for a water-based product start at £1600. This includes: R&D, formulation, up to 5 samples sent to you (if you are in the EU), unlimited revisions of the formula until lab tests+CPSR, PIF, signing over the IP rights of the formula. I ask for a 50% down payment and the remainder is to be paid when I hand over the formula and PIF. Once the final payment is complete, I sign over the IP rights. Please note that the price does not include CPSR (safety assessment), stability testing and challenge testing but I am happy to liaise with the companies that provide these services for you.

If you accept the quote, I will send over the bill for the down payment and, as soon as it is settled, we can start working together to create your product(s).

3. R&D

At this stage, we will ask you more precise questions (+ skype call):

What is your definition of ‘natural’? Do you want your products to be certified (halal, vegan, organic, cruelty-free ?) ? Do you have specific requirements regarding ingredients ? I usually work with unrefined oils and butters but if you prefer refined ingredients, this can be worked out. Are there any ingredients you would like me to avoid? Will you need me to manufacture the products as well (option subject to time availability) ? What do you want your product to achieve ? Do you have a specific texture in mind ? What is the approximate cost price per unit you are aiming for and how flexible are you with your budget ? etc.

Formulation is an art and a science and it means that it requires a lot of research, knowledge as well as a logical and creative process. That is why I thoroughly research ingredients that would perform the intended role, blend well together and act synergetically for best results.

4. Formulation

This is where I start formulating a recipe for your product in my lab and creating samples to send to you (usually of 25-50ml each) if you’re in Europe. You will then test the products, provide your feedback and I will go back to the drawing board.

5. CPSR and other lab tests

Once we are done with the formula, it is time for it to get safety assessed if you plan on selling in the EU (regardless of where you are based). I can liaise with the safety assessor for you but, as mentioned above, the cost of it will fall on you (same for other lab tests). If your product is water-based, you will also require challenge and stability testing. I am happy to contact a few labs I know, get quotes for you, and liaise with them. Please take into account that both stability and challenge testing will take approximately 4-6 weeks. Furthermore, stability testing will require you to have your final packaging ready as the product will be tested in it.

6. PIF

Product Information File. Once I have gathered all the legal documents for you, I will start preparing your PIF which contains all the relevant information about your product, its ingredients and its test results.

7. Finishing the project

This is where I send over the INCI list of ingredients in %, the detailed manufacturing process, test results, PIF and CPSR. If you would like me to manufacture the product for you, this is also where we discuss the MOQ, the quote for manufacturing and timescales.

8. Signing over the IP rights

Once you have made the final payment (remaining 50%), I’ll be happy to sign your agreement or provide you with one.

If you are ready to get started, contact me at morgane@rozemountain.com to discuss your project.